Jean Paul Gaultier Looked to Dutch Folklore for a Quirky SS27 Showcase
Mixing traditional references with sharp tailoring, ’80s Ibiza and the kind of clashes that have always felt at home at Gaultier.
Since becoming creative director at Jean Paul Gaultier last year, Duran Lantink has taken a provocative approach, focused on making headlines and causing controversy (remember that naked suit?).
This season, Lantink was back to putting the body front and center, which we’ve seen a lot of this season. For Spring/Summer 2027, Jean Paul Gaultier went full folklore, but naturally, getting a little weird. The creative director mixed traditional Dutch references with sharp tailoring, ’80s Ibiza energy and the kind of unexpected clashes that have always felt at home at Gaultier.
“Always look for something that excites you,” Lantink shared of his approach. For SS27, that meant taking inspiration from an archive of traditional Dutch garments and prints, then giving them a subtle polish. Graphic checks, tartans and floral motifs kept their folkloric character while appearing brighter and sharper for a new generation.
The collection had a distinctly witchy, sun-soaked ’80s mood, with ruffles moving through lightweight silhouettes, an antique cape dating back to around 1900 remade in cotton and embroidered bells jingling across jeans, skirts and coats. Elsewhere, a perforated leather dress hung from the head like a wearable wig, because this is Gaultier after all.
Tailoring brought the collection back down to earth, sort of. Blazers featured a new forward-leaning shoulder, precise armholes and a harmonica-like folded lapel, while trenches and cargo pants added a utilitarian edge. The brand’s iconic cone bras returned in leather and peeking through layers, while a distinctive square neckline previously seen in Lantink’s couture returned on bomber jackets.
And then there are the mirrors. Filling the Palais de Tokyo, they reflected the collection from every possible angle, creating the kind of controlled chaos Lantink clearly enjoys. For SS27, the designer wasn’t interested in making everything match. Instead, he embraced the idea that we all dress differently depending on the day, and that sometimes the most interesting looks are the ones that make absolutely no sense.
Check out some of the looks above and head to the brand’s website for more.
For more from Paris Fashion Week, check out our favorite SS27 shows.
