Julien Dossena Remembers the Late Paco Rabanne in FW23 Show
Featuring the brand’s signature chainmail, surrealist dresses and more.
This Paris Fashion Week marked the first season since designer Paco Rabanne died last month at the age of 88. Julien Dossena, who has been the label’s creative director since 2014, used the Fall/Winter 2023 runway as a moment to remember the late creative, who founded his eponymous brand in 1966.
The collection was a deep dive into Rabanne’s career and some of the most iconic looks he brought to the fashion world. The show kicked off with a series of soft knit separates and floor-length coats highlighted with belts and hardware detailing, followed by tops, trousers and jumpsuits with oversized bows.
The runway, which featured Paco Rabanne’s signature chainmail handbags, quickly transitioned into a range of colorful elements, ranging from floral patterns to satin and lace. Gowns were ruched at the chest with heart-shaped embellishments, while the collection proceeded with surrealist themes. Salvador Dali paintings such as The Shades of Night Descending (1931) and Sun-Table (1935) were printed onto maxi-length gowns featuring cutouts at the neckline and waist.
Metal mesh and chainmail were further explored as part of Dossena’s tribute to Rabanne, with skirts and dresses constructed out of metal and glass attachments making their way down the catwalk. The collection was complete with seven mini-dresses in Paco Rabanne’s recognizable chainmail.
Watch the runway show down below and see the looks on the FW23 runway above.