What Leo Prothmann Rescued for SS27
Fifty kilos of deadstock denim and a painting he never forgot.
Leo Prothmann brought Kirchner artwork to London Fashion Week for his Spring/Summer 2027 showcase. The collection, called “Marcella,” placed Kirchner’s 1913 painting ‘Street Berlin’ in dialogue with London nightlife in 2026, an overlap that felt deliberate and decorative in unison.
The show took place at The Mandrake Hotel on the Jurema Terrace, a venue that has hosted Prothmann before and now carries some history with the brand. As for the collection, Prothmann chose to repurpose old garments and materials, his own archive as well as deadstock fabrics. The team pulled fifty kilograms of deadstock denim from a warehouse, then spent months cutting it apart, distressing it and rebuilding it into new shapes. Leather from Muirhead, originally developed for Aston Martin interiors, was reworked into outerwear and accessories across the collection. The leather, made for automotive interiors, made for a sturdy silhouette without losing the signature outerwear shapes that Prothmann is becoming synonymous with.
Elsewhere, swimwear from Carmela Dias appeared underneath distressed knitwear throughout the looks. Masks designed with Hedi Xandt, based on the painted faces in Kirchner’s work, added a graphic, exaggerated element to several looks. Jewellery from Karwea leaned industrial, and styling from Edda Gudmundsdottir tied the different materials and references together. As for footwear, archive shoes from Rick Owens were repainted with markings taken from the animal-print dresses in Kirchner’s paintings, giving the footwear a rougher, more instinctive feel than the originals.
For more on London Fashion Week, read up on our SS27 roundup.
