Harry Styles, Prom Queens and Dirty Pop: Your Definitive Recap of London Fashion Week SS25
From celebrity sightings and off-schedule shows to inclusive casting and impressive locations.
The Spring/Summer 2025 season of London Fashion Week has officially been and gone and we’re left with an incredible line-up of emerging designers to know, viral moments saved on TikTok and celebrities spotted in the city. The season started off strong with a pre-loved runway by eBay, followed by Harry Styles attending S.S. Daley‘s debut womenswear presentation.
Next up, we saw Di Petsa bring its signature, sex-positive showcase into Spring/Summer, followed by a Chopova Lowena x ASICS debut and an exploration of plastic surgery by Natasha Zinko. Elsewhere, the season saw big names like JW Anderson and Burberry return to the schedule, punctuated by fan favorites like Nensi Dojaka and KNWLS.
Continue reading to find out more about the best shows and collections this season at LFW and stay tuned for more fashion week news from our next stop: Milan!
Most Talked About Show: MAINS and Mowalola
Skepta’s MAINS returned for a second season and after last LFW’s debut, the anticipation was high. Inspired by Matilda (and more importantly, his daughter’s love of it,) the show fused collegiate styles with contemporary streetwear codes, prioritizing traditional tailoring. Elsewhere, MOWALOLA was a surprise addition to the off-schedule shows, presenting her “Dirty Pop” album with a runway show, musical performances and special guests — including supermodel Irina Shayk who closed the show.
Most Inclusive: Karoline Vitto
Each season, Karoline Vitto sets a new standard, pushing boundaries further than ever before. Vitto’s vision transcended beyond size inclusivity to encompass age and ethnic diversity, truly reflecting the rich variety of women in society. Staying true to her ethos, the Brazilian designer delivered a casting lineup that championed diversity. From the ’90s model, Angellika Morton who broke ground by transitioning to plus-size modeling in 1997, to the striking New York-based makeup artist Raissa Flowers, who closed the show with her undeniable presence, Vitto showcased an impressive range.
Best Location/Set Design: LABRUM and Tolu Coker
LABRUM‘s LFW location was one for the books. A perfectly fitting tribute to the designer’s many collaborations with Arsenal sponsor adidas, the showcase was held at Arsenal’s Emirates stadium, a picturesque and personal backdrop for a collection that effectively captured the brand’s immigrant identity. Featuring British talent like Clara Amfo and Arsenal’s own Declan Rice, the impressive showcase was the ultimate experience, from the pitch down to the people.
Meanwhile, for Tolu Coker’s SS25 collection, the British-Nigerian designer drew from her familial and spiritual roots — most notably, her mother. As impressive as the collection was, it’s Coker’s use of the NEWGEN space that left a lasting impact on us. From projected ’60s wallpaper and a welcome matt at the entrance of the venue, to real vintage furniture including: lamps, already sunk in armchairs and a laid out dining table, the brand really set the scene for a typical ’60s home.
Best Sound Design: Jawara Alleyne
Fashion East alum Jawara Alleyne took guest to the “Island Underground” for his SS25 show to celebrate the cultural identity and artistry of the Cayman Islands. Alleyne says of the collection, “‘Island Underground’ is [characterized by] individuals who take inspiration from our culture … mixing in references that push the culture forward.” The collection showcase was accompanied by a beautiful live performance by DJ and Producer Vivendii, Tafari Alleyne and Off-White™ Creative Director Ib Kamara.
Best Collaboration Debut: Nensi Dojaka x Calvin Klein and Chopova Lowena x ASICS
This season, Chopova Lowena teamed up with ASICS to recreate several versions of its classic GEL-Quantum 360 VIII silhouette. Adorned with metal spurs, garden finds and metallic studs, the shoes also arrived in a Mary-Jane style, some of which were designed purely for the show, with others available for purchase via Dover Street Market.
Elsewhere, Nensi Dojaka debuted a sultry new collaboration with Calvin Klein — a partnership that was teased ahead of the show. Fusing Calvin Klein’s signature lingerie construction with Dojaka’s gossamer-thin organzas, the collaboration resulted in barely-there bodysuits, delicate bras and sheer dresses.
Honorable Mentions: Chet Lo, Ashley Williams, HARRI
Chet Lo‘s playful runways always score highly in our books and this time, the London-based, Chinese designer paid tribute to his mother Mai-WahCheung with a vibrant collection of wearable pieces that honored her unique career path in computer science.
Elsewhere, Ashley Williams took her signature kitschy and ironically femme designs to the next level for SS25, delving into the bittersweet process of growing up, especially when you’re unsure of how. Inspired by the internet’s ubiquitous phrase “I’m just a girl,” Williams expertly captured the anxiety and stress of transitioning from girlhood to womanhood. The result is both relatable and poignant, reflecting the emotional complexity of coming of age in today’s world.
Finally, HARRI presented its first-ever womenswear collection, transitioning his signature ballooning latex into new silhouettes.
