Everything You Need To Know About Paris Fashion Week FW25, So Far
From Zomer’s reversed runway to Vaquera’s pearl-clutching collection.
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Everything You Need To Know About Paris Fashion Week FW25, So Far
From Zomer’s reversed runway to Vaquera’s pearl-clutching collection.
Paris Fashion Week is back for the Fall/Winter 2025 season with a whopping total of 109 shows and presentations. The industry has its eyes set on big debuts — from Sarah Burton‘s Givenchy to Alessandro Michele’s first runway collection for Valentino. Elsewhere, Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran of Matières Fécales will unveil their first fashion label and LOEWE will present a presentation in place of a traditional runway format.
Showcases so far include Vaquera‘s American Dream inspired collection, Zomer‘s upside-down and backwards garments, GANNI‘s nod to Parisian classics and Stella McCartney‘s take on ’80s office glam We’re looking forward for more to come from Balenciaga, Marine Serre,Miu Miu and, of course, Coperni, which plans to host a LAN party with 200 global gamers. The week’s events will close with Saint Laurent‘s show on March 11.
Keep reading to explore our highlights from PFW so far, and stay tuned for updates.
On the opening night of PFW, NYC label Vaquera supersized its accessories and signature lingerie to gigantic proportions, in a collection that looks both to the past and future for inspiration. This summer, the brand’s creative directors Bryn Taubensee and Patric DiCaprio will officially move their studio to Paris which made them reflect on their time in New York City and feelings of anticipation, or what they call “future nostalgia.”
The duo unveiled a sophomore partnership with D’Heygere Jewelery which created the collection’s oversized heart shaped pendants. Working with the Andy Warhol Foundation, Vaquera also designed denim featuring Andy Warhol‘s print of Marilyn Monroe.
Zomer’s Reversed Runway
“What is the right way to wear a garment? Which side is the front, and which is the back? Upside down or right side up?,” Zomer’s press notes share. For their FW25 collection, Zomer’s creative directors Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha were inspired by the child-like wonder of dressing up. Breaking the standard runway format, Zomer began with a final walk to start the show and ended by waving with their backs turned to the audience. The collections’ garment offering further explores their idea of twisting, undoing and glitching traditional forms of dressing. Jackets were worn backwards with the zipper going up the spine, oversized collared shirts were turned upside down and trousers were flipped on their heads.
GANNI’s Skirts-Over-Trousers
After the success of its inaugural PFW show for Spring/Summer 2025, GANNI returned to Paris with a collection dripping in layers. Romantic draping, rich textures and vintage florals defined this poetic collection while flowing dresses in muted florals nodded to classic Parisian style. While we’ve seen skirts-over-trousers steadily rise for the past few season, GANNI furthered this aesthetic with bulky fabrics and a cross-pollination of materials. Pastel pink and light grey seem to be the go-to color combo for FW25 dressing, seen in GANNI’s collection through two piece sets, fur-lined jackets and chunky knitwear.
ANREALAGE’s Dress Screens
ANREALAGE uses fashion as a canvas to explore the interpersonal relationship between technology and creativity. In past seasons, creative director Kunihiko Morinaga has unveiled UV-light dresses, team ups with Apple Vision Pro and inflatable garments. For FW25, the Japanese label came to PFW with a collection dubbed “The Screen.” The first 12 looks were pixelated, saturated and printed versions of the screen fabric that would soon follow. Comprised of one million pinpoint sized LEDs per look, the “SCREEN garments change instantaneously according to the wearer’s mood, drawing from a galaxy of downloadable designs rendered in vivid digital RGB colors unreproducible in CMYK,” according to the press notes. Standout looks from the collection include both a digital and analogue print of the American Cathedral in Paris, where the show was staged.
Dior’s Prehistoric Femininity
Maria Grazia Chiuri views fashion as a transformative force. For Dior‘s FW25 collection, she reinterprets heritage through a modern lens, blending past influences with contemporary aesthetics. Signature elements return, including John Galliano’s “J’adore Dior” T-shirt, baroque pearls and intricate embroidery. Structured coats, sheer shirts, lace collars and masculine jackets redefine Dior’s feminine universe. The set design was equally cosmic. Models walked on a stage of fast paced meteoroids as icebergs sprung from the ground. Prehistoric birds flew through the air as a volcanic eruption dispersed to complement the finale.
Stella McCartney’s ’80s Glam Take On Corp
Corpcore is getting a glam makeover, courtesy of Stella McCartney. Titled “From Laptop to Lapdance,” the FW25 show, took day-to-night dressing very much to heart. Stellacorp might have been in the 17th arrondissement, but the designer’s innovative material fabrications – Yatay M, a vegan material made out of fungi mycelium, recycled polyester and biobased polyurethane – prove time and time again that ethical decision don’t mean sacrificing style. Or, in this case, glamor, think dress-for-success suits à la American Psycho, supersized hooded coats, glistening silken gowns and even bare bottoms: full-on ‘80s decadence. The adidas x Stella McCartney Rasant made a welcome return to the runway, too.
Acne Studios’ Surreal Skyline
If the purple draping and surreal skyline created in collaboration with Swedish design duo Front didn’t get you, the contrast in the clothing at Acne Studios certainly did. Set to the tune of Bjork, no less. Mirroring its setting and sound, Jonny Johansson’s FW25 collection played on the contrasts between the urban and the natural worlds, the super-sized cover-up and naked dressing. Mohair bodies and fuzzy Steiff-fabric coats brought that stuffed toy energy to the runway, matched by the MSCHF viral Big Red Boot-adjacent felt versions worn by some of the models. But there was a dedicated ’80s feel to the collection here, too: oversized bows, check tailoring and a series of scarf-sash situations were the height of decadent and glam. The two bear print full-length sheath dresses – no doubt a nod to Bjork’s iconic “Human Behavior” music video – were a real standout also.
Balmain’s Bold New Softness
There wasn’t a single shoulder pad in sight – except for the ones Olivier Rousteing wore himself. But the point still stands. The FW25 Balmain show marked a new era in Rousteing’s ruling, one where the Balmain army, seemingly, is entering its soft era. Knitwear abounded in a plethora of gray melange (which itself isn’t a very Rousteing color, either), oversized and swathing models, stomping in thigh-high boots. A quiet luxury spin on zebra print – rendered in the shiniest of beadwork, naturally – brought that Rousteing flair, though. If there’s one thing to take away from this runway (and others) it is that our measure of oversizing is about to get supersized.
We speak to Stothard about the barriers young girls in the sport face, what changes still need to be made and the inspiration behind this year’s UEFA Women’s EURO kits.
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